Barbecued Baby Back Ribs

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Serves 4 to 6

2 slabs baby back ribs
½ cup W’ham seasoning of your choice (or use the recipe that follows)
Apple juice, for basting

Set up your smoker to cook indirectly at 250º–275ºF. This temperature is a little higher than usual, but John believes that ribs should be cooked hotter than most barbecue. To prepare the ribs, trim them of excess fat. Do not remove the membrane from the back of the ribs before you cook them. John, like many other Memphis pitmasters we’ve met, says that leaving the membrane on keeps the meat juices in. Paul and John have a friendly disagreement on this technique. Sprinkle the ribs all over with the W’ham seasoning. Place the ribs in the smoker. If you hang the ribs like John and Paul do, you don’t have to turn them. Just baste them with apple juice after 1½ hours. If you cook the ribs on a grate or in a rib rack, turn them after 1½ hours and baste with apple juice. Cook the ribs 3 to 4 hours or until you can take two ribs side by side and easily tear them apart. When the ribs are finished cooking, remove the membrane and serve.

By Gregory Dal Piaz